Melvin, I don't think I ever asked the obvious question. Why did, you buy mismatching units in the first place. ?
Sender fitted the tank and not the dash. One fitted the dash and did not fit the tank???? Me thinks.
Pertinent Q, by all means. Do I have any good answeres? Some, and some might be a surprise to you.
Firstly, I don't have an electro background myself. The nearest is from my university days when I side kicked
in a power utility company, asessing various configurations of the grid and its effect on cosine fi.
When I decided to embark on this boat adventure in LoS I did buy a heap of things back home that I brought with me to LoS.
In the heap quite a few gauges, temp gauges, tacho meter, speed gauge, pressure gauges and this Wema fuel gauge.
At the time, didn't even realise that there were potential for problems. Couldn't dream of that there would be problems with finding a sender for
a world wide brand as Wema.
When I got around to install the tank/fuel staff I instead opted for a Swedish product which did not require any holes in the tank.
It used asdic type techniques to measure the fuel level.
Very complicated setup, not anywhere near IP67. Tore it off after a year and half.
When I started on my 2nd boat I was determined to do it properly, with my Wema gauge.
Bought a so called TS1 (ultra sonic tank sender) from BEP in NZ, famous brand.
Didn't occcur to me that BEP and Wema could not talk.
Well they could not.
The instructions for the BEP thing states clearly which ohm ranges can be selected.
The instructions for gauges mostly does not even mention ohm at all.
Pretty dark this.
I contacted the two maritim shops in Pattaya that I use and two shops in Europe
that I use. They were able to inform me about the ohm range for the gauges.
3 out of these 4 shops firmly stated that 0-190 ohm gauge combined with 10-180 ohm
sensor/sender should work just fine, no problem.
Note, these are not dumb peopleat all, they have been in the business for years and
know (for most parts) what they ate doing.
The 4th shop, in Pattaya, Marin electro/electronic shop run by an Australian engineer
was clear that this would be a problem.
His approach was to hammer on BEP to change their software in the TS1 to include
the 0-190 ohm range. He was doubtful re trying to sort it out with resistors.
Before I asked my Q here I have explained the problem and asked advice on a couple
of very active yachting forums in my home country.
Turned out that this is quite simply a problem area people know zilch-to-little about.
The guys on these two fora have been playing with boats and marin equipment all their
life without coming across this.
Strange.
Of course, most people still use mechanical arms bobbing up and down in the tank
to send signal. But still!
Well, roughly; thats why.
Thanks for your help.